The Swedish princess cake, a delightful dessert with a rich history, has become a beloved treat in San Francisco and beyond. This article explores the story behind its rise in popularity, tracing its origins to the Mission District and its evolution into an international cake trend. The princess cake's journey is a fascinating blend of cultural heritage, culinary creativity, and social media influence, all centered around a simple yet exquisite dessert.
The story begins with Angel Davis, owner of Millay wine bar, and her friends enjoying a Swedish princess cake from Schubert's Bakery during a birthday celebration at a Lake Tahoe cabin. Unbeknownst to them, a black bear had snuck in and devoured the cake, leaving no crumbs behind. This incident, while amusing, highlighted the cake's allure, as it was clearly a favorite among bears and humans alike.
The Swedish princess cake, also known as 'prinsesstarta', was created in the 1920s by Jenny Akerstrom, a home economics teacher. Its popularity has surged in recent years, thanks to the efforts of bakers like Hannah Ziskin at Quarter Sheets and the Wenzel brothers at Schubert's Bakery. Ziskin, a former Google employee, played a significant role in popularizing the cake by adding her own creative twists, such as incorporating Californian olive oil and mascarpone into the recipe.
Schubert's Bakery, a Clement Street staple, has been crafting princess cakes for over a century. The current owners, the Wenzel brothers, have been with the bakery since the 1980s and have seen a significant increase in demand for princess cakes in the past decade. The bakery's classic version features a fluffy white sponge, raspberry filling, Kirsch-enhanced custard, and Lubeck marzipan, all of which contribute to its unique flavor and texture.
The princess cake's popularity can be attributed to several factors. Firstly, the pandemic played a role, as people sought to celebrate and indulge in cake during a time of uncertainty. Secondly, the cake's aesthetic appeal is undeniable, with its pastel colors and decorative elements that translate well into Instagram-worthy photos. Additionally, the cake's versatility allows for creative variations, as seen in the new-school versions with added ingredients like mascarpone and olive oil.
San Francisco's culinary scene offers a variety of princess cake options, with bakeries like Victoria Pastry, Ambrosia Bakery, and Fillmore Bakeshop serving their own unique versions. Miette, known for its pastel-loving aesthetic, offers a beautiful bombe, while Cuivre recently introduced a pink version inspired by local blooms. Kantine, a Scandinavian bakery, also joins the trend by making princesses for preorder.
Despite the competition, Schubert's remains a customer favorite. Angel Davis, a loyal customer, eats a princess cake on her birthday every year and received 15 additional cakes as gifts last year. This loyalty highlights the cake's enduring appeal and its ability to bring people together, whether it's for a birthday celebration or a bear's midnight feast.